Sewing machine needle and suture selection and matching

Usually we refer to the sewing is to use the suture will be connected to the garment or in the garment surface embroidered with a certain decorative pattern. To achieve a perfect sewing effect, in addition to the requirements of the sewing machine itself is a good performance, skilled operators, but also requires stitches, sewing, sewing material specifications match the three.

Needle sewing machine is an important sewing machine parts, needle varieties are only hundreds of domestic. The nature of the machine determines the choice of needle, different nature of the machine to be equipped with different types of machine needle specifications, such as the use of sewing machine 96’1 or 88’1-type needle; overlock machine using l8’1-type machine Needle and so on. Regardless of which type of machine, sewing process should be based on the nature and thickness of sewing materials selected needle specifications that needle. In general, the needle for the textile and knitwear, the needle tip are ground into a conical, sewing leather and similar sewing materials are used when the special shape of the tip, such as spear tip, tip, anti-twist tip, etc., purpose Is to increase the needle strength, and achieved good sewing effect.

The selection criteria for the needle are as follows:
1. In the case of considering the strength of the needle itself, as far as possible with smaller needle.
2. Thick material of the puncture resistance, in order to prevent broken needle should choose a strong stability of the thicker needles, and coarse needle is not easy to stab the thicker staple fibers.
3. Thin material of the puncture resistance is small, in order to prevent the sewing material appears needle hole, affect the appearance of sewing materials, choose a smaller needle.
4, the needle should be smooth, non-sharp spikes rust, needle obtuse appropriate to prevent damage to the staple fiber.

Select the size of the needle after sewing, and then select the suture. Sutures are blunt cotton, polyester cotton, blends, polyester and rayon, generally from the two, three, four, six single-twisted yarn twist, the direction of twist can be divided into s twist and Z twist two. Lockstitch sewing machine is generally used Z twist thread, good quality S twist in other sewing machines can also be applied. Cotton sewing thread sewing performance is good, but in the washing shrink than the synthetic fiber line, its strength, chemical resistance and abrasion than synthetic fiber is also poor, high-quality mercerized cotton thread is expensive, it is now rarely used cotton sewing line. Staple fiber polyester sewing thread is low cost, excellent stitching stability, durability and sewing property, so it is suitable for all conventional garment sewing. Sewing machine sewing thread is generally cotton, but the current high cost of cotton fibers, it is generally replaced by polyester-cotton line.

In the selection of the thickness of the suture should first consider the use of fine sewing thread, from the following aspects:
1. Locked stitch sewing machine The bobbin volume is limited, the use of smaller sewing thread can accommodate longer sewing thread, save shuttle time can get high work efficiency.
2. Fine sewing thread small size, chain sewing feel good.
3. Small sewing thread sewing space is very small, less cause fabric deformation and sewing wrinkle.
4. Fine sewing thread can use small number bowl, in order to avoid fabric needle hole.
5. Fine sewing thread can also reduce the prominent seam marks, so that the inner surface of the fabric surface and reduce the impact of wear.

In the sewing process, we must ensure that the needle, suture, sewing material specifications to match the three to form the correct stitch. In addition,
1. In the sewing process also consider the twist of the suture, the purpose of suture twist is to increase the strength and elasticity, but if the twist is too large will cause the suture coil and affect the normal formation of the ring, under normal circumstances take 1 meter long Suture line to seize the two Swiss, to move closer to the two strands of the natural twist lap should not be greater than 6, or prone to eye needle fault.

2. In the sewing, such as sewing thinner soft must use fine needle, at the same time should increase the amount of needle back, because the suture and the friction of the sewing material is small, such as pick up the same distance, relative to the upper thread loop width Small, affect the normal hook to take, will have jump needle failure. If it is rough fabric is the opposite. This requires adjustment of the relative position of the hook thread and the needle.