Classification and characteristics of sewing thread
Garment sewing thread, according to the raw material is usually divided into natural fiber sewing thread, synthetic fiber sewing thread and mixed sewing thread three categories.
Natural fiber sewing thread
Cotton sewing thread: Cotton fiber as raw material by refining bleaching, sizing, waxing and other processes made of sewing thread. Cotton sewing thread can be divided into no light (or cord), mercerized light and wax light.
Cotton sewing thread high strength, good heat resistance, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressure hot, mainly for cotton fabrics, leather and high temperature ironing clothing sewing. The disadvantage is the poor elasticity and wear resistance.
Silk: silk or silk thread made of natural silk, with excellent luster, its strength, flexibility and wear resistance are better than cotton, suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, high-grade woolen clothing, fur and leather Clothing and so on.
Synthetic fiber sewing thread
Polyester sewing thread: This is the most used, the most popular sewing thread to polyester filament or staple fiber as raw materials. Polyester sewing thread has the characteristics of high strength, good elasticity, abrasion resistance, low shrinkage and good chemical stability. It is mainly used for the sewing of denim, sportswear, leather products, wool and uniform. It should be noted that, polyester suture melting point low, easy to melt in the high-speed sewing, plug the eye of the needle, resulting in suture fracture, it is necessary to use the appropriate needle.
Nylon sewing thread: nylon sewing thread made of pure nylon multifilament, sub-filament yarn, short fiber lines and elastic deformation of three lines, the main varieties are nylon filament yarn. Its advantage lies in the extension of large, good elasticity, the fracture moment of the tensile length is higher than the same specifications of the cotton three times, which is suitable for sewing chemical fiber, wool, leather and elastic clothing. The biggest advantage of nylon sewing thread is transparent, because of this line transparent, and color is better, thus reducing the difficulties of sewing wiring, development prospects. But limited to the current market, the stiffness of the transparent line is too large, the intensity is too low, easy to float on the surface of the fabric, coupled with high temperature, sewing speed can not be too high. At present this line is mainly used for decals, cutting edge and other parts of the force is not easy.
Vinylon sewing thread: made of vinylon fiber, its high strength, stitch smooth, mainly for sewing thick canvas, furniture, cloth, labor insurance products.
Acrylic sewing thread: made of acrylic fiber, mainly used for decorative lines and embroidery threads, yarn twist lower, brightly colored.
Mixed sewing thread
Polyester sewing thread: 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended, both polyester and cotton both advantages. Polyester / cotton sewing thread can not only ensure the strength, wear and shrinkage requirements, but also overcome the defects of polyester heat-resistant, high-speed sewing can be used for cotton, polyester / cotton and other clothing.
Core sewing thread: the filament core, the outer covering of natural fibers and the system of sewing thread. The strength of the core-stitched thread is dependent on the core, while the wear and heat resistance depends on the overwrapping yarn. Therefore, the core-stitched sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing, and it requires a high-stitched garment.
Sewing thread to assess the quality of a comprehensive indicator is seam.
Seamability indicates that under the specified conditions, the sewing thread can successfully form a good stitch, and in the trace to maintain a certain mechanical properties. To ensure seamability at the same time, sewing thread also needs the correct application, to do this, should follow the following principles:
Sewing thread and the same raw materials or similar fabric in order to ensure its shrinkage, heat resistance, wear resistance, durability, etc. to avoid the line, the difference between the fabric caused by shrinkage appearance.
For special-purpose garments, special sewing threads should be considered, such as elastic sewing thread for elastic clothing, and heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof sewing thread for fire-fighting clothing.
Clothing different parts of the stitch used in different sewing thread should also be with its change, such as the need to use bulky bag line or deformation line, double-line stitches should choose a large extension of the line, crotch seam, shoulder suture should be firmly , While the buttonhole eyeliner is required to wear.